The Cruisers Triangle

For about 10 years now we have been traveling up and down the ICW. We do not do the trip every year, but have 5 round trips under our belts. If you leave early enough from the Chesapeake in September or October, you will have enough time to make side trips in North and South Carolina and Georgia to see new sights before the cold sets in. If you are pushing South because you left too late in the season and are being chased by frost, slow down when you hit the Florida border.

One particular year we left later than we planned, not getting away from Baltimore until the third week in October. Granted, we had better weather than expected for the most part with very little frigid cold stuff, but still wanted to press on before the every-three-day-front pattern started. We always feel like once we get to Fernandina Beach, we can slow down a bit. This seems to be a sentiment now shared by many and, as we discovered this trip, a new trend has begun. Folks will bounce from St. Mary’s, Georgia to Cumberland Island, Georgia to Fernandina Beach, Florida and back to one or the other places for weeks on end. None of them are more than 8 or so miles apart and can be reached within the span of an hour or two, depending on how you hit the tides.

We have always stopped in Fernandina Beach because we have friends who live there. We discovered many years ago that we do not, however, like to be in the anchorage in a good blow. An open fetch from the north or south and strong currents can make for anxious hours or days at anchor. One experience with others dragging down on us was enough. We now head upriver to St. Mary’s, which is much more protected, should weather be an issue. When the weather has passed, we simply up anchor in St. Mary’s and arrive back in Fernandina in under 2 hours (closer to 1 if the tide is right).

Since on this trip we arrived from an easy overnight offshore run from Beaufort, S.C. and were anxious to see our friends, we went straight to the Fernandina anchorage and had a nap before getting together with our friends for the evening. After looking at the weather forecast for the next few days and realizing 25-30 knot winds were forecast, we decided it would behoove us to run upriver for a few days until the winds died down and we could resume our visit. We left the next day for St. Mary’s. We didn’t time our trip upriver very well with regard to the tides, but it really didn’t make too much difference as it is about 8 miles. We arrived in St. Mary’s and anchored just past Lang’s West, the second marina, on the North side of the river in about 8 feet at low tide, in a good holding mud bottom. Don’t forget the tides in this area run about 7 feet.

St. Mary’s, Georgia, claiming to be the second oldest city in the country, is a quaint little town at the very edge of your waterway chart. Although Native Americans and Spaniards passed through this area as early as the mid 1500’s, St. Mary’s was not established as a town until done so by the British in 1787. St. Mary’s has a population of about 8,000 people and lives up to its reputation as a quiet village on the Georgia/Florida border. It is notable for its shops, restaurants, submarine museum and historic homes which line the waterfront. The Howard Gilman Memorial Park opened in June of 2001. This attractive waterfront park lies just above Lang’s Marina West. There is a fountain, swinging benches, brick walkways and a gazebo in the center inviting you to stroll or just sit and hold hands with your honey on a swing under a vine covered trellis. St. Mary’s is only a 30 minute ride from Jacksonville International if you have folks flying in and only 9 miles off of I-95 if you have guests coming by car. (See www.stmaryswelcome.com for a walking map with points of interest.)

The group of roving sailboats planned to have their 3^rd annual Thanksgiving dinner in St. Mary’s. While anchored here, we were asked on at least 2 occasions if we needed to provision, do laundry or fill propane tanks. Folks who had procured rental cars or had friends in the area wanted to make sure everyone had what they needed. This was a refreshing experience having become a bit jaded by some earlier uncruiser-like behavior on the way down. We were also asked to stay for Thanksgiving, but had plans further down the road so bid our farewells.

After a few days in St. Mary’s, folks would up anchor and run downriver for the 5-6 mile jaunt to Cumberland Island. This pristine, stunning island is only accessible by air and water. There are no roads or bridges leading to Cumberland. One anchors, then dinghies to shore at the designated docks. Don’t forget your $4 park entry fee when you go to shore. One can hike the miles of trails on the island or walk the long, sandy beaches and hunt for shells. Camping on the island is also permitted at designated sites for stays of no longer than 7 days and you must reserve in advance. You must also bring everything you need with you If you don’t feel like taking your boat to Cumberland and want to leave it in St. Mary’s, you can simply take the 45 minute ferry ride to the island for $12 per person for adults, $9 for senior citizens and $7 for children 12 and under. There is also the $4 park entry fee for ferry riders as well.

Cumberland Island is a diverse ecosystem. The inland side is saltwater marsh teeming with life. Continue further toward the ocean and you will enter a live oak forest draped with Spanish moss. In their shadows, ferns abound as well as raccoons, armadillos and other animals rustling in the underbrush. The National Park Service provides a map which indicates the paths to the beaches and other points of interest. Please note the areas that are off limits to the public. The contrast from the dense green forest to the white, bright sand beach will take your breath away. The beach runs for an impressive 17 miles and wild horses can be found on the inland side beaches.

There are also a few structures on the island. The ruins of Dungeness, built in the late 1700’s, are not open to the public due to being unsafe structurally as well as being inhabited by diamondback rattlesnakes! There are 2 manor houses on the island, Greyfield and Plum Orchard Mansion. Greyfield is private property, but Plum Orchard was donated to the park service by the Carnegie family. The First African Baptist Church still stands near the North end of Cumberland Island, having been built in the late 1800’s and rebuilt in the 1930’s. Take your camera to shore as there are photo ops at every turn. Our trip South this year did not allow time for a stop in Cumberland, but gazed wistfully at the island as we drifted by on our way back to Fernandina.

Much of the Fernandina Beach waterfront is docks used for commercial ships, shrimpers and pleasure boaters. The Fernandina Harbor Marina is right on the ICW and has fuel and dockage alongside an extensive pier. Fernandina has the bustling Centre Street running perpendicular to the waterfront. It has much more activity and shops than does St. Mary’s and is a good place to begin your Christmas shopping on your way South. Although any major provisioning is quite a distance from the marina, most folks seem to be able to catch a ride with some nice locals who take pity on them as they were once cruisers themselves. Downtown Fernandina encompasses a 50 block area with many homes and B&B’s listed in the National Registry of Historic Landmarks. Much of the architecture is Victorian. It boasts a whopping 25 restaurants within walking distance of the marina. For more information on this friendly town and the surrounding area go to www.aboutamelia.com.

Having spent time in each of these three places, we fully understand the current trend toward staying in “the triangle” for weeks and enjoying the slower pace the South offers. So if you are heading South for the first time in the Fall or making a repeat passage, talk to other boaters on the VHF and find out what you can bring to Thanksgiving dinner in St. Mary’s or who is going to Cumberland to stroll the beach and join in the fun!

Wadaya Need To Go Cruising?

I think that anyone that reads any cruising publications is asking that same question and looking for the answer. But is it really that simple? There are still those out there that will tell you all you need is a stout ship, a well-built sextant and a wooden bucket and paradise is yours. Why, they will tell you that you don’t even need one of those noisy, smelly, infernal engines. And that is wonderful…..for them. For the rest of us, a little creature comfort and some additional equipment to enhance the experience and make our passages a little easier and safer is what we are looking for. Now I don’t mean for those of you with unlimited resources. That is a whole other article. Most of us are of average means and if we want to cruise then we really have to watch the cash flow.

Over sixteen years of living aboard and cruising have taught us many lessons and fine-tuned our requirements. Some things we have learned we can’t do without and others we really never needed. The first consideration was the boat. That choice will depend on where you plan to cruise and when. Running the ICW and coastal cruising will demand one type, while crossing oceans and even short offshore hops to the islands will require something entirely different. For us it meant a heavy displacement cruiser. We knew we would never be the first into the anchorage, but comfort, seaworthiness and above all sound construction was more important. Another big consideration was storage. When you consider a cruising boat, there is a very special exercise I like to perform. Sit down in the cabin and begin to mentally place everything you own on this vessel. See how quickly you run out of room. It helped us to decide NOT to buy some so called cruising boats and later proved to be a good exercise.

Once we decided on the boat, we were lucky in that the previous owner was one of those that didn’t need any extras. As a matter of fact the only cooking equipment on board was a very large gimbaled microwave oven and an electric frying pan. He seemed insulted that we wondered why there had never been a stove on board. The point is that a vessel like this will allow you to add the equipment you want in the manner you want. We have installed every piece of equipment on board. The reason being, if there is a problem, the installer is always on board. We have always done the installation according to manufactures recommendations and within safety standards. Sometimes it took a lot of studying and research in advance, but it always paid off later. So wadaya need?

Living on a boat shouldn’t be a lifelong camping experience. Our first installation was a propane stove. We considered other sources. Kerosene, diesel, and others. None gave us the convenience and familiarity that propane presented. We installed all the required safety equipment including automatic shut offs, sniffer sensors and a sealed locker vented to the outside of the boat. All met current safety standards. The next area was the head. We decided on a manual one since we did not want to increase our electrical demands. The shower was next since bucket baths on deck with salt water didn’t appeal to either of us. The hot water heater was already ten years old and that is about their shelf life. It was replaced with a stainless unit that would allow us to heat water with the engine. This was preferred since we don’t like to spend all our cruising dollars on marina stays. Being at anchor somewhere is what we believe cruising is all about. The addition of a Watermaker made staying at anchor in remote areas and not worrying about long showers more of a reality.

Every cruiser is concerned with the boats electrical demands. That and anchors is usually the topic of discussion whenever two or more cruisers get together. Our 110-volt needs are light. The TV and DVD player, a low watt microwave and occasionally hand power tools are about it. We opted for a 12-volt to 110-volt power inverter instead of a generator. We didn’t want another noisy, smelly, high maintenance system aboard. A 1850-watt inverter has worked well for us for many years. It is quiet and maintenance free. If you need lots of 110 for refrigerators and AC units then a generator is a must. We have never felt the need for AC when at anchor and we have spent most of our time in the tropics. A good sun awning and well-placed cabin fans went a long way to keeping us comfortable. Our refrigeration unit was originally an engine driven unit. It was another system that we removed even though it worked perfectly. The decision to go to 12 volt DC was to cut down on the need to run the engine at least twice daily and sometimes more.

The refrigeration decision changed our 12-volt DC needs dramatically. For quite some time our mizzen mount wind generator along with the engine alternator served our needs quite nicely. Now our daily amp hours almost doubled. We then added three a solar panel to try and make up the difference. It was adequate for a period of time. On long offshore passages where the autopilot, lights, computer and radar were running constantly it was not quite enough. Our engine alternator also proved to be too small. After a trip up and down the east coast, through the Bahamas, and the Turks and Caicos, Dominican Republic and the south coast of Cuba we returned to the states to add a few things. That included two additional solar panels. We installed the largest we had room for and could afford. When the sun is shining they are silently charging our batteries with no muss or fuss. We also increased our alternator size to the largest our engine would accept. These additions so far have proved to more than meet our demands. If I could add more it would certainly be additional solar panels.

That brings us to the second most popular topic, anchors and ground tackle. Many of our cruising friends carry a gigantic storm anchor for those ultimate conditions. We considered this also, but decided on another approach. Instead of one large anchor, we added three oversized ones for the length and displacement of Sea Trek. Our primary and secondary are plow types and a back up danforth is stored aft. Being able to use any of the three or all of them at any given time made more sense to us than carrying around a big storm anchor we might never use. But having the three oversized ones still gave us pretty good confidence in just about any conditions we encountered. This has included ten hurricanes and four tropical storms. Did we mention Sea Trek is a storm magnet? Since much of our cruising is around and near coral and rocky bottoms we chose mostly chain ground tackle. Again, the largest our electric windless and anchor locker will allow. Nylon anchor rode will chafe through in a matter of hours on rocky or coral bottoms under the right conditions.

For us, staying in touch with both cruising and land based friends and family is important. In the beginning…we carried a portable SSB receiver to get weather reports and listen in on the many nets. After our first trip to the Bahamas we found we wanted to also talk with the folks we met and have access to any types of weather resources. A SSB transceiver was the next step. Then we arrived into the computer age. The wonders of a laptop for space, programs that brought us weather fax off the SSB, and navigational software that gave us real time plotting from the GPS (we have two) were new toys we couldn’t leave the dock without. Being at the dock introduced us to the Internet and email. Suddenly we were junkies. How could we ever go cruising without email???? At first we used and were very happy with the then new Pocketmail. We stayed in touch and got a regular email fix. Life was good. But as we wondered further away from home there were some drawbacks. Connecting in foreign countries was difficult, expensive and sometimes impossible. Then we discovered HF email and the wonderful Ham operators that would provide worldwide availability for no more than the cost of the equipment and a license. Replacing our perfectly good SSB with a new transceiver that had Ham capabilities was a must. Adding a TNC modem opened up the world to our daily email. The communications officer, after much studying and anguish, passed her Ham exam and now has the appropriate license. The safety issues of this type of set up are also very comforting.

Safety is important to us. Sailing short handed offshore should never be taken lightly. ALL of the crew should know how to get the boat to safety if they are the only ones able to do so. The equipment we carry reflects our serious approach to this issue. We installed a life raft on deck in it’s own cradle prior to our first offshore passage. With research, we purchased what we believe to be one of the best. This was one area we decided that price should not enter into the equation. Jack lines from bow to stern are always attached. We decided on inflatable life vests with a built in harness. This has encouraged us to wear them any time we are out of the cabin offshore. They are reasonably comfortable and allow us to always be hanked on. We always carry the required flares, distress signals and additional safety equipment. A regular inspection tells us when they need replacing.

Creature comforts are also important to us. We truly believe that this enhances the whole experience. While we were still in northern climates we installed a diesel cabin heater. It is plumbed to our main fuel tank so no additional fuel sources or tanks are needed. Fortunately we have not needed it for years. A TV and DVD player is great for those like me that need a regular TV fix. We carry a large selection of DVDs since we have the storage space for them. We started collecting CD’s after a replacement of our 12-volt stereo system. We still have lots of cassette tapes. Sun awnings with water catchers built in and 12-volt fans throughout the boat serve as our air conditioning system. Add what you feel you would like to have.

Electronics have improved with leaps and bounds since we started cruising. We started out with a GPS, VHF, wind instruments and a SSB receiver. Today we carry two GPS receivers, one at the helm in the form of a chartplotter and one at the nav station. The nav station is connected to the laptop which has the latest navigation software installed. Electronic charts are wonderful and we use them extensively. But the paper charts are sitting directly under the computer for planning, reference and regular plotting just in case. Radar was another invaluable addition. We sailed without it for years. Once we installed it, we wondered how we ever got through it all. It is great for tracking weather and avoiding those odd squalls and also an invaluable tool for night passages. It will pick up anything else out there with you and sound an alarm to let you know if anyone is getting too close. We still have the wind instruments. I don’t have to explain to anyone the value of a good autopilot. Again, do some research before buying. One comment we heard over and over again about a very popular brand was that it had a wonderful service department. Almost every owner made the same comment. Naturally we avoided that one. Look at the recommended size for your vessel and go to at least the next size larger. This will really pay off in more difficult conditions. It also means that it will work much less. The wear and tear need for maintenance and breakdowns will be fewer. Power consumption will also be less.

The family car (Dinghy) is another consideration with lots of choices. We went with a ridged hull inflatable. We started with a fiberglass dinghy, which lasted all of a couple of weeks. After almost capsizing it a couple of times and many dings to the hull it quickly went away. We next went to a straight inflatable. This was convenient for storing on deck but hard on the dinghy when landing on rocky beaches. The RIB was a good compromise. We also added davits on the stern to carry it. It never spends a night in the water and we seldom have to do any serious cleaning to the bottom. It is also much more secure, since we can easily chain it to the mother ship. An appropriate size outboard is also necessary. It needs to be able to plane the dinghy with at least two people aboard and a reasonable amount of equipment or supplies. The larger the tube size and the higher the rise in the bow will help determine how dry you will stay in those choppy conditions.

Last but not least, one addition we added after our first trip up and down the ICW is one of my favorites. That was an anchor wash down system. We no longer have mud streaming down the decks and the hull each time we up anchor. It is a simple, straightforward installation. All you need is a salt-water pump, some fittings and hose. Another thru-hull is not really needed. You can tee into an existing one that is forward on the boat. It is also great for washing off fish parts when you catch this evenings’ dinner. Fishing is another subject.

I don’t mean to imply that this is the definitive answer to what you will need for cruising. This is what has worked for us over the years. Each boat and crew will have their own requirements and needs. Do what works for you. We are about to begin our next cruise and feel pretty good about our decisions. I am sure several of these points will be argued along the way. But then again, that is also part of the experience. We hope that whatever choices you make your voyages will be both safe and memorable. Fair winds.

Hurricane And Storm Prep

We have on many occasions, only half jokingly, told our friends that we believe Sea Trek has a bulls-eye painted on her somewhere with the symbol for a hurricane in the center. With the approach of the last Hurricane, this will be named storm number fourteen for us, plus the unnamed storm of the century. We now have hurricane preparations down to a science. We realize that living on board in the Florida Keys might put us in harms way, but the storm of the century brought us 85 knot winds and two feet of hail in the northern Chesapeake. We experienced Hurricane Georges, Charley and tropical storm Mitch in the Keys. Dennis ran over us three times in Great Bridge, Virginia, once as a hurricane, then backed up over us as a tropical storm, and then backed over us again as still a tropical storm. We were pinned to a sea wall in Great Bridge, VA for ten days. We sat out Hurricane Floyd anchored in the Wye River in the Chesapeake. Irene found us in Bellhaven and Isabel found us, again, in the Chesapeake and a bunch more elsewhere. The point being that anywhere on the East Coast or Gulf Coast of the US is in harms way if you live and travel on a boat.

Once it was announced that a storm was headed our way, we knew instinctively what we had to do. First item of business was to tend to the sails. No matter what the predicted storm size, the roller furling head sail always comes down. This time around we chose to leave the main and the mizzen on their booms and to wrap a good strong line around sail, sail cover and boom. If the storm threat was greater, we would opt to remove them. Let me add that we are in a very protected basin with high buildings all around us. We knew the wind protection was good. Otherwise we would remove and stowed all sails to reduce windage and the potential damage that could be caused if one got loose. We next stripped every loose item from the deck. Our rule is that if it is not bolted or otherwise attached to the boat, it has to come off. If we are at anchor, then that means it must be stowed below. This time we were able to stow most items in our van.

Last year we replaced our aging bimini with a hard top. Removing this would be major construction, so we decided to tie the whole thing down with a series of crossed lines that should prevent the wind from removing it. A solar panel atop the dinghy davits had to be removed. Next the dorades were replaced with their proper screw on caps. All covers come off and all hatches are dogged down and taped all around with preservation tape. This allows removal of the tape without pulling the finish off around it. We then make sure all ports are secured and fastened down tightly.

We generally wait until the day before the storm arrives to set up the dock lines. The reason for this is so we can be fairly certain of wind direction and strength. We use a spider web pattern that would make the average arachnid proud. A major point is knowing as close as you can what size storm surge to expect. We need to allow enough slack in the lines to accommodate the rise in water but not too much so the boat will bang into pilings and the dock. That means positioning the lines on the dock as high up on the pilings as possible. A small nail will insure that they won’t slide down. We also run lines as far from the boat as possible, often tying to pilings etc. that are down the dock a slip or two away from us. The boat is positioned in the center of the slip and as far off the main dock as we can get it. Of course this only works if space is available and it does not interfere with your neighbor. If we are at anchor we set out all three of our anchors. We try to determine where the heaviest wind will come from and set our largest anchor and chain it that direction. But we have been fooled a time or two. We also have set an anchor off the bow, even in the slip, if it might help keep us off the dock. You also need to consider any places that the lines might chafe and use good chafe gear in these areas. Sea Trek has substantial cleats and a very solid Sampson post. Any line is only as secure as the attachment point on the boat. In the past we have seen many instances of cleat failures and the lines stayed intact. Of course these are considerations that need to be made far in advance of any storm season.

Next, we begin removing our electronics. All radios, GPS’, computers, radar, removable depth sounders and whatever else we consider essential, come off the boat. Most all are installed originally with easy removal in mind. Again, because of our protection and the projected size of the storm, we decided to leave the wind generator and the radar dome in place. We did, however, climb the mizzen and tie both off very, very securely. Next we remove all important papers and financial materials, especially the insurance papers. In the event of a major storm we have removed almost everything from the boat, including our clothes, personal items and mementos that we would not want to loose. The interior of the boat is prepared just as if we were going to sea. All loose items are stowed. Doors and drawers are secured. Anything that might move around or get tossed about the cabin is tended to. We close all sea-cocks and shut off the propane system completely. In certain vessels, a plug in the exhaust outlet might not be a bad idea. We also move all interior cushions to the v-berth in case a hatch or ports leak. The wind driven rain can be the same as if someone turned a fire hose on the boat. We remove the shore power cord and turn off the power to our slip. Lightning is always a serious problem during these storms. I don’t know how much it really helps but we clamp heavy cables to the upper shrouds on the main and the mizzen and let them hang in the water. The hope is that it will provide a direct path for the lightning to the ground instead of through the boat.

Our dinghy hangs on davits on the stern. It has ridden out gales while under way with no damage. But this is a different situation. Once all other preparations are complete, we tie it off the dock with double long lines. As with the main boat the attachment points need to be strong. We then completely fill it with water. It should prevent it from going airborne when the high winds move in. Our outboard is stored ashore. All fuel jugs are also stowed ashore somewhere that can’t cause a fuel spill during or after the storm. We have a small gasoline generator that we use if all power goes out after the storm. This is a common problem. We fuel up the generator and stow it in the van. Once all preparations are complete, we stand back and take a hard look at all we have done and go through the “what if” process. Many times we have changed lines or made some adjustments to secure things a little better. This entire process takes us a full two days from early morning till we run out of energy. To completely strip the boat takes us three full days. But when we drive away (and I can’t put in to words how difficult that is) we are confident that we have done all we can to secure Sea Trek so we can return, with her in one piece.

Now this is our routine that we have developed over the years. It has worked well for us. But each situation and each vessel is different. Only you can determine what is best in your case. We are strong advocates for leaving the boat in hurricane situations. A boat can be replaced but human life can not. You won’t be able to count on any help once the storm reaches the danger point. You will be on your own. Expecting others to risk there life and well being during these extreme situations is not practical or realistic. Hurricane Charley only gave us a glancing blow. Maximum winds were only 50+ knots. We did have a close encounter with a tornado at the approach of the storm. But Charley’s sudden rapid development and abrupt change of course reminded us that these storms are very unpredictable. Accurate forecasting even with our vast resources is still not much more that an educated guess. Just as those in the Port Charlotte area found, we too could have suddenly been facing a category 4 storm and the severe destruction that came with it. Each of us must make our own decisions as to how much and how far we will go to protect our vessel. Once you are in the teeth of the storm and things go wrong there is nothing humanly possible you can do. Our hearts and prayers go out to all those that lost everything during these terrible storms. We know this is the price we pay for living where we do. We try to lessen that price as much as we can. A good plan, well in advance, and good preparation has seen us through so far.

Cruising And Sailing Cuba On Our Boat, Click to enlarge page

This was originally posted on our Sea Trek site and was from our trip to Cuba several years ago. This was originally published in Soundings Magazine, and many of our readers ask that we republish it. So here it is and we hope you enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed making the trip. Revisiting Cuba is high on our cruising plans.

We weighed anchor and got underway from Punta Manzanillo in the Dominican Republic at 6:30 a.m. on a Sunday morning. It was Easter Sunday and we knew that the entire island of Hispaniola would be celebrating today. We would sort of be celebrating ourselves, but in a different way and for a different reason. Today was the beginning of a cruising adventure that began as an idea five years prior and was just now before us.

Leaving the Florida Keys, making a quick trip through the Bahamas, Turks and Caicos and now the DR, we were as ready as we were going to be. We had provisioned and prepared the boat while spending a wonderful time in Luperon. A day sail to Manzanillo and a good night’s sleep found us both excited and anxious. We had heard mixed reports about visiting Cuba. Everything from how terrible it was to reports that it is one of the most wonderful cruising grounds left in the Atlantic. Soon we would know.

Refurbishing The Spars

For those of you who pay to have all of the work done on your boat, read no further. This article is for those of us who live to cruise and do most, if not all, of our own maintenance. The first step is to find a yard that will let you do your own work. You will probably have to hire a crane to un-step the mast(s) and lay them in a cradle if the yard does not have their own crane. You can cut the cost of the crane if you can find a few other boats that are doing the same thing at the same time. Once you have booms removed and the masts un-stepped and balanced securely on sawhorses, you can begin the process of mapping the reconstruction

We made the mistake of thinking we would remember where everything went. We strongly suggest you take pictures as well as making notes of each item removed. Wrap tape around the cleats, eye bolts, etc. as you remove them and write on the tape where they were located. We at least had the forethought to do this much so we only had a few mystery cleats for which we could not find homes. We had 4 separate boxes in which we placed hardware from the mizzen boom, mizzen mast, main boom and main mast. The shrouds were coiled and marked. Some of our halyards were a bit long in the tooth, so a string was tied and taped to the end then pulled through the mast in order to replace them. Unfortunately, someone decided to pull the strings out so we had to purchase a wire feeder from the hardware store to rerun the halyards.

After all of the hardware was removed, marked and boxed, including the spreaders, we began the process of prepping the masts. This required some creative engineering since we needed to “hang” everything that was being painted. Some areas that had received repeated banging from shackles needed serious sanding and other areas just needed a light sanding. Once the sanding was completed to our mutual satisfaction, the bare areas with no paint remaining were sprayed with a yellow/green paint called zinc chromate specifically designed to coat bare aluminum. Once those areas had been coated completely and lightly sanded with 220 grit paper we got down to the task of applying the first coat of primer. Three coats of primer were applied prior to applying the glossy topcoat – another three coats. For paint, we chose to use a 2 part paint we have used on the hull and topsides as well. Sanding is necessary between each coat again with 320 grit sand paper. Additionally, after sanding, the area needs to be blown off with a high pressure air hose, wiped with a tack cloth, then with the paint prep that goes with the paint you are using. We divided these tasks. I was the prepper and Chuck was the painter. I never thought I would get done sanding 6 coats of paint on 2 masts, 2 booms and 4 spreaders! We would flip the booms and masts after each coat to make sure each side got equal coats. Chuck used a roller and not a brush, except for those hard to reach areas.

The finished results were just as good as if they had been sprayed. All of the cleats, mast steps and anything else stainless were given a good shining with metal polish prior to returning them to their positions on the booms and masts. Any screws with heads that had been stripped in the process of removing them from the spars were replaced. Did I mention that stainless screws that have been married to aluminum for 10-20 years do not like to come out easily? For the not so stubborn screws, some lubricant left on for a few hours was sufficient. Some of the other screws in the original cleats needed a bit more persuasion and a few even required either heat or a power impact wrench!

The final stage of checking the rigging included checking each shroud and fitting for cracks, beginning with a visual inspection for broken strands. Chuck chose a multi-stage product that started with spraying them with red dye. Once that dried, a white dye/paint was sprayed on top which showed any cracks in the end fittings. We were fairly lucky and only needed to replace our bobstay and 2 of the lowers. Next step is to begin reassembling all the hardware. Each stainless fastener was coated with tef-gel to prevent any corrosion and to facilitate any future removal. Once all of the tangs were reattached to the top of the masts and the shrouds reattached to them, we could contemplate having the crane return to the yard to re-step the masts. This is also a good time to check that masthead light, VHF antenna, wind instruments and wiring and replace if questionable. Unless you particularly like being hauled up in the boson’s chair. We chose to replace the first 2 as their condition was questionable and it was very convenient. This is also a good time to secure the wiring inside the mast to prevent that slap, slap you get in the rolly anchorages at night,

Hopefully when you chose to take on this task, you will have allotted a number of weeks to complete it. We had the absolute worst weather imaginable as we tried to do this project on weekends and holidays (and some evenings). It literally took us months between rain and snow and our real jobs. This task would have been much simpler if we could have attacked it on a daily basis instead of whenever our work schedules and mother-nature would cooperate. However, the end result was worth the effort and our boat looks pretty good for an old girl! In the end, you will have a great new look and enhance the beauty of your vessel and, more importantly, safe, secure rigging. Happy cruising!

Changes In The ICW

We have now made five and a half round trips on the ICW between the Florida Keys and the Chesapeake, the first being a decade ago. Since that first trip, we have seen many, many changes. Some are positive and many not so. It was during this last trip south that we really had the opportunity to ponder those changes and how they affected our perception of the waterway. We still remember the awe and wonder we enjoyed on that first trip. We also remember the anxiety and anticipation of the unknown. There is almost one article each month in almost every boating publication that covers some part of it. In this I would like to reflect on those changes we have experienced.

The ICW officially begins at mile marker zero in Norfolk, but for many, the journey begins much further north, usually somewhere in the Chesapeake or even as far as Maine. The trip to mile marker zero can be as exciting or as daunting as the waterway itself. Offshore or near offshore conditions are not uncommon and the boat and crew need to be prepared. Two things we noticed almost immediately on our run down the Chesapeake were that the traffic was going to be horrendous and the anchorages were going to be very crowded. The first day out we counted over twenty five boats within our immediate vicinity, all going the same direction. We remembered that first trip when we had long stretches of water alone and we were the only boat in many of the anchorages.

One sure sign of the changes in our society is the constant and vigilant presence of our military and law enforcement. From the Annapolis area to Norfolk, Virginia, we were within sight of a naval vessel at all times. After we entered the Norfolk area near the Naval yards the patrols and security were everywhere. Any vessel that strayed to the shipyard side of the channel was immediately intercepted by a security boat. Their approach was no nonsense. Their command was for you to move to the other side of the channel immediately or be arrested. We were buzzed at mast head level by fighter jets on the Pamlico Sound. The Marines at Camp LaJeune were practicing exercises day and night. We did anchor in Mile Hammock Bay in Camp Lajeune with no problem. As a matter of fact we and the twenty five other boats anchored there felt very safe and secure. The main ship channel in Miami was closed to boat traffic whenever a cruise ship was in port and the Coast Guard escorted most large vessels in and out of ports. Coast Guard and local law enforcement are constantly posted in all major ports we passed through.

It seems to have become acceptable for some newbie’s to hook up with what we dubbed the waterway Gurus. A fine old salt that had probably made the trip several times, or at least once, and taken some poor inexperienced crews under their wing. The Gurus planned out the trips each day, decided how far and at what speed their little groups should travel and where the anchorage for the evening would be. After communicating this information each morning, the group would then head out with the Guru at the lead, making all contact with bridge tenders for the group and making sure everyone was staying together. This made for interesting entertainment when two or more groups converged at a narrow part of the waterway and particularly at bridges. And it was a little confusing as to which Guru was directing which group. When we accidentally mixed in on occasion it was always made clear that “they are not with us”. It was also the Gurus responsibility to troubleshoot problems aboard any of their charges vessels as they presented themselves.

One of the sadder changes we noticed was the loss of comradery we had known over the years. With the forming of the “groups” it seemed that other boats and crews were considered outsiders and socializing outside the “group” was not a good idea. Fortunately there are still a few of the old time snow birds still making the trip that you still can meet up with old friends along the way. It may just be that with so many, many new cruisers, the mind set and attitudes of living ashore have not been shaken and the cruising mentality has just not yet taken hold. We can only hope.

Shoaling of the waterway has always been a problem, even on that first trip south. Some areas are still being dredged, but many others are not. Playing the tides and staying perfectly in the channel is sometimes the only way a deep draft vessel can use the waterway. Many times we “farmed the bottom” mid channel at mid tide. We often observed vessels running from channel marker to channel marker. We also observed some of those vessels running aground. A commercial tug Captain once told us to pretend we were a tug pushing an eighty foot barge when we transited the narrow channels. He suggested that dredging was done to accommodate the commercial traffic and not the pleasure boats. By imitating what a tug and barge would do, we would always find the deeper water. It worked just as he had told us. Meetings are currently being scheduled up and down the east coast to discuss the impact to local communities and the boating public in general. There is talk about closing parts of the waterway. We feel this would be devastating. Each year the problem in some areas is increasing. As funds are diverted to more security and other issues the dredging of the waterway becomes less and less a priority.

Another more serious change we have seen is a real lack of good common sense and seamanship. Perhaps this too is due to the increase in the number of first timers to this annual migration. Each day the VHF brought vessels chastising each other, and there is much use of unkind words and phrases that we could not publish in this article. The waterway was designed and built for all vessels small and large to use but there seems to be two opposing groups. There are those that can travel fairly fast (you know who you are) and those that can not travel very fast (you know who you are). These groups seem to have become diametrically opposed and unable to transit the same body of water without some colorful conversations. It appears more and more that one group has taken a delight in making the other group as uncomfortable as possible. The unfortunate consequences are that at some point someone will get seriously harmed. There are certain rules for preventing that situation but in many instances neither side seems interested in those rules. In the interest of informing those unfamiliar, the rules of overtaking state that if you can not safely pass another vessel, you do not pass. Common courtesy from the boats that can’t travel very fast (you know who you are) dictates that you slow as much as possible to allow boats that can go faster (you know who you are) to pass safely. Those boats that can travel faster (you know who you are) must slow to a safe speed and reduce their wake so as not to cause damage or injury on the other vessel. Here is the procedure we have used successfully over the years without any complaints. We always approach the slower vessel dead astern of them and slow down to match their speed. We then call the vessel ahead to let them know we are there, which side we will pass on and ask them to slow down so that we can pass. We then pass as close in to the slower vessel as can be done safely and then move directly in front as soon as it is safe to do so. Once we are in front of the vessel we have passed, we can increase speed and go on our way with little inconvenience or discomfort to the other crew. It is a very simple procedure, but one that many have not yet mastered. Why can’t we all just get along?

I can’t mention the VHF without noting how many of our trucker friends seem to have made the conversion to boating. The chatter on the radio daily is full of folks wanting to know what their friends “20” is and if so and so “has their ears on”. To our brethren from the highway we say welcome. We are sure you will bring your professionalism with you to the water. That’s a big 10/4 good buddy.

We have many favorite anchorages and towns along the waterway and noticed the biggest changes here. Ten years ago we could travel for very long stretches without seeing any signs of civilization. It even caused a little anxiety in that we worried that if we had a serious breakdown, help was not close by. Many small towns brought welcome packages to the new boats that arrived each day. After this last trip we fear the time is not too far off that the waterway will be totally developed from one end to the other. Even now there are very few miles of unspoiled areas. It seems that many of our favorite towns have discovered the potential income from visiting boaters. Large anchorage areas such as Annapolis, Charleston, Vero Beach, and Marathon, to name a few, have set mooring buoys and are now charging cruisers. The City of St. Augustine is currently considering installing a mooring field in the entire anchorage area. We do understand some of the reasoning behind this. It is another case of a few spoiling it for the many. A number of our favorite towns along the way are off our must stop list because there are so many derelict boats anchored that there is only room for a few cruisers and the unattended boats are a safety hazard in bad weather. These poorly maintained, sometimes abandoned vessels become a burden on the local government when they sink or become navigational hazards. With the increase in the number of boats making the trek each year, this makes finding decent anchoring spots in these towns almost impossible.

Not all the news is negative. There is still enough area out there that peace and solitude can still be found. You just need to study the charts and look for places other than those written up in the guides. Many cruisers rush North or South and miss the great places off the beaten path. Small towns on the Pamlico Sound and Neuse River that many bypass still remind us of what cruising these areas was like that decade ago. Towns like Great Bridge Virginia still have free dockage and most conveniences are nearby. Elizabeth City still welcomes cruisers with a free town dock. St. Mary’s, Georgia has discovered the economic benefit of the cruising community. They have completely rebuilt the waterfront area making it very attractive to the boater. Yet few have discovered it. We have found anchorages some days by just making a right or left turn at the end of the day and dropping the hook close in to shore, just off the waterway. We do as much offshore running as weather will permit. We have to chuckle as we sail along the coast and listen to the shouts on the VHF from those inside. The numbers of bridges that have been replaced by 65’ spans since that first trip are increasing. Although care should be taken if your vessel has a tall rig. It seems some engineers have lost their tape measures and bridge height is not as advertised. Timing your trip so that you are not traveling during the peak part of the season can much improve your experience as well as following the rules of the road and maintaining a sense of humor. Nothing makes the trip more enjoyable than having your boat properly prepared and the crew well educated for what they will encounter along the way. Read the articles, cruising guides, and study the charts well in advance. And even then remain flexible and open. Safety and good seamanship are important on the ICW, the ocean, or sailing in your local waters. Slow down and smell the fish fry’s. Make the entire ICW as much a part of your destination as where you plan to spend the winter months. Give your fellow travelers a wave along the way and dinghy over at the anchorage and say hi. We have made many friends for life just practicing these simple courtesies.