DSC Radio Safety Alert

With the proliferation and popularity of DSC radios, we felt you needed to be advised of this important potential safety issue. The following is a Safety Alert issued by the U.S. Coast Guard:

Dangers Associated with Automatic Channel Switching on Digital Selective Calling (DSC) Equipped VHF Marine Radios

It has come to the Coast Guard's attention that an automatic channel switching feature found on certain models of Digital Selective Calling (DSC) equipped VHF marine radios may create an unintended hazard by automatically switching from a working channel that might be in use at the time to Channel 16 when the VHF marine radio receives a DSC distress alert, distress alert acknowledgment or other DSC call where a VHF channel number has been designated.

This could happen without a vessel/radio operator's immediate knowledge and could initiate an unsafe condition by which the vessel/radio operators would believe they were communicating on a working channel such as Channel 13 when, in fact, they were actually on Channel 16. Imagine a towboat operator on the lower Mississippi River making passing agreements on VHF channel 67 and then suddenly, without warning, not being able to quickly reestablish communications with those vessels because his/her radio automatically switched to Channel 16 instead. Since this unsafe condition can happen at any time, the Coast Guard strongly recommends disabling the automatic channel switching feature when maintaining a listening watch or communicating on the designated bridge-to-bridge radiotelephone, or while monitoring the vessel traffic services (VTS) channel. Radios that lack the disabling feature should not be used for bridge-to-bridge or VTS communications.

The International Telecommunications Union Sector for Radiocommunications, Recommendation M.493-11 published in 2004 and later versions require DSC-equipped radios to provide for disabling of this channel auto-switch feature. In the United States, the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) requires all DSC-equipped radios certified after March 25, 2009 to meet this requirement. Manufacturers that do not provide a disable function are encouraged to do so and to inform their customers if means for correction exist. Updated information including a listing of manufacturers of radios believed to be affected by this Safety Alert will be posted as available at http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/marcomms/gmdss/dsc.htm .

The Coast Guard strongly reminds radio operators and other users to always ensure they are on the proper operating channel when communicating or maintaining watch, particularly with DSC-equipped radios capable of channel auto-switching.

This safety alert is provided for informational purposes only and does not relieve any domestic or international safety, operational or material requirement.

Developed by the Spectrum Management and Telecommunications Policy Division (CG-652),

United States Coast Guard Headquarters, Washington, DC. Questions should be directed to Mr. Russell Levin at (202) 475 3555 or Russell.S.Levin@uscg.mil

Coast Guard Sets Weather Buoys In The Chesapeake

5th District Public Affairs

U.S. Coast Guard

Photo Release

Date: March 16, 2010

Contact: Public Affairs Det. Baltimore

(410) 576-2541

NOAA your weather

Coast Guard, NOAA set seasonal buoys to gather weather data

BALTIMORE - The Coast Guard along with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration conducted seasonal buoy replacements Monday in the Chesapeake Bay.

The Coast Guard Cutter James Rankin, a 175-foot coastal buoy tender homeported in Baltimore, maintains approximately 375 aids to navigation and conducts fall and spring buoy replacements annually.

Weather buoys collect data and report real-time environmental information including wind speed, temperature and wave height. The buoys also serve as interpretive buoys that mark the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historical Trail that runs throughout the Chesapeake Bay.
"The weather buoys provide valuable weather information during peak recreational boating seasons," said Lt. Dave Lewald, the commanding officer of the Rankin. "The buoys also provide historical data which can benefit researchers collecting information on how to clean up the bay."
Click on the photos above to view a higher resolution version and more specific caption information on the Coast Guard Visual Imagery site.
For more information visit www.ndbc.noaa.gov or visit http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=44043 to view data from the weather buoy pictured above.

Installing a Power Inverter

There may still be cruisers out there that light their way with oil lamps, use a bucket instead of a head and sail without a motor, but in 18 years of cruising we have not met them. Today, most cruisers are like us, preferring to take the comforts and conveniences of life ashore with them when they cast off the dock lines to sail off into the sunset. Long ago we made the decision to cruise in comfort and not turn our sailing trips into a camp out on the water. This meant we would need a means to power our small appliances, power tools and entertainment devices. There is more than one way to accomplish the same end depending on the level of your power consumption and what your budget might be. For us the requirements were simple. The cost needed to be kept down, the system needed to be as simple as possible, and we needed to be able to install and maintain it ourselves. Additionally, it should not interfere with our piece and quiet, or that of our neighbors. OK, maybe not so simple after all.

Dehumidifier Recall

We try and post any safety issues we find that would have a affect a broad number of boaters and we feel this is an important one since many of us in all climates along the eastern seaboard especially, could be affected. We use a dehumidifier all of the time on board Beach House but not any of the ones affected by the recall. Nothing is more frightening and devastating for boat owner like a fire so we considered this one important. This humidifiers can be purchased on line or at many home improvement stores. Check the link and be sure yours is not included

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission has issued a recall of 98,000 dehumidifiers sold under the Goldstar and Comfort-Aire brands between January 2007 and June 2008. The model in question, manufactured by China's LG Electronics Tianjin Appliance Co., has a 30-pint resevoir with a front-loading bucket, and a red shut-off button. This unit has been determined to be the cause of a number of fires — and we all know how boat fires usually turn out. To see if your dehumidifier is on the recall list, check this site.

Coast Guard Rescue Off NC Coast

News Release	Date: January 03, 2010 Contact: 5th District Public Affairs (757) 398-6272
Coast Guard, Navy rescue man from sunken sailboat off east coast
PORTSMOUTH, Va. - The Coast Guard and Navy worked together Sunday morning to return a rescued man to shore after his sailboat sank about 250 nautical miles east of Cape Hatteras, N.C. Coast Guard Fifth District watchstanders received a satellite distress signal at 5:07 p.m. Saturday from the sailboat Gloria A Dios. They launched an Air Station Elizabeth City, N.C., HC-130J Hercules aircraft crew to search for the sailboat, began broadcasting an Urgent Marine Information Broadcast to notify other mariners, used satellite Enhanced Group Calls to target other vessels in the area for help and diverted an AMVER vessel (a ship participating in the Automated Mutual-Assistance Vessel Rescue System.) The Hercules crew made contact with the Gloria A Dios operator, Dennis Clements, at about 6:30 p.m. and found that his sailboat had been taking on water since Wednesday due to storms and needed help. The Coast Guard watchstanders and Navy's U.S. Second Fleet Maritime Operations Center coordinated to identify the USS Dwight D. Eisenhower and its air assets as the quickest and safest way to rescue Clements. The crew of the Hercules dropped a life raft near the Gloria A Dios after a large wave demasted it causing two holes in the port side cabin at about 9:30 p.m. The sailboat sank and Eisenhower's rescue helicopter crew picked up the man from the water around 10:30 p.m. and flew more than 100 miles back to the carrier with the Hercules flying overhead. In the meantime, an Air Station Elizabeth City MH-60T Jayhawk helicopter crew had flown to the Eisenhower to refuel. The rescued man was checked by the Eisenhower's senior medical officer and the Jayhawk's crew flew him safely back to Elizabeth City. The rescued man was back to solid ground Sunday at 3:45 a.m. "When a mariner in distress is hundreds of miles offshore, the best platform to assist might be a commercial vessel transiting between ports or a DoD asset," said Lt. Scott L. Farr, a watchstander at the Coast Guard Fifth District Command Center. "The motor vessel Ryujin was diverted but could not maintain their course to affect a rescue due to heavy seas. Ultimately, the quick and effective coordination between the Fifth District Command Center, Air Station Elizabeth City and the USS Eisenhower provided assistance to this mariner with the use of multiple aircraft by coordinating and leveraging their unique capabilities when no one else was within 100 nautical miles of the sailboat's position." Download photos and video: Photo 1 Video - 25mb Windows Media File (prior to demasting) An Additional report can be found here, http://tinyurl.com/yhjlrqn

Coast Guard EPIRB Warning

November 30, 2009 Alert 08-09
Washington, DC
UNAPPROVED EPIRB BATTERY REPLACEMENTS
Fishing vessel safety staff in the Coast Guard’s Seventh District has received at least three reports in
the past few months regarding unapproved replacements of 406 EPIRB batteries by servicing
companies having no association with the EPIRB manufacturer. These unauthorized battery
installations would likely result in a failure of this critical item of lifesaving equipment, and as such are
not in compliance with the operational readiness requirements of 46 CFR.
The following is a typical excerpt from an EPIRB manufacturer report:
“The unit was opened and a foreign battery was found inside. The battery was built up using
(manufacturer) fuses and wiring salvaged from the original (manufacturer) battery. They then
covered their battery with the original (manufacturer) yellow heat shrink, (manufacturer) labels
and taped it together. This was then covered with a black heat shrink wrap. The connections
were soldered and not spot welded, as is required by the design and is performed in
(manufacturer) production. The battery measured 8.7 volts. Our batteries read 9+ volts when
they are new. This battery was installed one week prior to it being brought into (manufacturer).
There was also evidence of water intrusion due to the crack in the top cap, which (servicing
company) did not recognize as they are not trained in these matters.
The EPIRB was condemned by (manufacturer) and the customer was notified when he came
to pick the unit up.”
Every approved (i.e., accepted by the FCC) EPIRB is tested during its approval process using a
battery, or batteries, specified by the manufacturer. Approved EPIRBs come with a user's manual
which describes battery maintenance and replacement procedures. In order for the EPIRB to remain
within the conditions of its approval, the manufacturer's instructions in the user's manual must be
adhered to. To ensure that replacement batteries are of the same type with which the EPIRB was
approved, and are correctly installed, manufacturers typically specify that battery replacements only
be done by the manufacturer or a manufacturer-approved shop.
Any modification or changes to an EPIRP must be made in accordance with the manufacturer. The
use of alternative replacement parts or batteries is prohibited and may prevent the device from
meeting lifesaving requirements. The Coast Guard strongly reminds EPIRB owners and servicing
facilities to be aware of the compliance implications and potential for equipment failure stemming from
any EPIRB modification or unauthorized battery replacement.
This safety alert is provided for informational purposes only and does not relieve any domestic or
international safety, operational or material requirement. Questions regarding the information
presented in this alert may be addressed to LCDR Vince Gamma of the U.S. Coast Guard
Headquarters Lifesaving & Fire Safety Standards Division at 202.372.1396 or
Vincent.A.Gamma@uscg.mil.

When Is Towing a Boat, Not "Towing" a Boat?

Today’s recreational boater is as likely to leave the dock with a paid towing insurance policy on hand as they would a VHF radio. The commercial towing industry for recreational boating is big business today and many boaters, in an attempt to defray significant expenses should they need assistance, are looking to companies like Towboat US and Sea Tow to come to the rescue if they need it. But do you really know what is covered, what is not and what your responsibilities will be in these “rescues”? Many of these policies have different levels of coverage and deductibles, just as your auto or home owners insurance might. It is to your benefit to ask questions before you buy these policies, read them carefully and have all of your questions answered long before you might need the service. Not all policies are the same and in the end they can be a savior or they can cost you or your insurance company a substantial sum.

Let’s take a look at a hypothetical situation. You have enjoyed a wonderful day on the water with the family and decide to anchor out overnight and head home in the morning. A great meal and a glass of wine at sunset on the deck is the perfect end to a perfect day. You climb into the bunk and plan for a peaceful nights sleep as the boat gently rocks you into slumberland. Some time in the middle of the night you are bounced out of your berth by waves being generated by a thunderstorm which was not forecast or expected. You bound out on deck to lightning crashing and the rain being driven horizontally. Once your eyes begin to fully function you realize you are no longer in the same spot where you dropped your anchor and the shoreline is fast approaching. Just as you fumble around and find the ignition keys the boat suddenly comes to a stop. Ah, the anchor has reset and you are saved. As quickly as the storm came up, it is gone and as you look around all seems well. You will definitely have a story to tell your friends when you return to work on Monday. You climb back into your berth and sleep soundly the rest of the night.

The next morning you wake to bright blue skies and calm waters but the boat has a strange list to the port side. You climb out on deck and find you are aground from the anchor dragging in the storm and in checking the tide tables find the tide is actually going out and soon you will be stuck even more than you currently are. No worries, you have towing insurance and the towboat number is on your cell phone speed dial. The towboat operator picks up on the second ring and you are feeling very lucky. You explain to him that you are aground and the tide is falling so you need to get the boat to deeper water as soon as possible. He asks if the boat or crew are in any danger and you quickly reply that the only injury is to your pride. He explains that he is about 25 minutes from your location and will be there as soon as possible. Some hour and 15 minutes later the towboat shows up and the tide has been falling steady all of this time. The towboat Captain assesses the situation and makes the determination that this is indeed a “hard grounding” as opposed to a “soft grounding”. Now did you know there was different coverage under you policy for hard, instead of soft groundings? He asks you to sign a consent form to agree that he is now dealing with a hard grounding. You grumble about how long it took for him to get there but you relent and sign the form. The towboat Captain puts a line on your boat and makes an attempt to pull you into deeper water without damaging your boat or running gear. After a first attempt it appears that the tide has fallen too far and simply pulling you off is not going to happen. The towboat Captain scratches his chin for a few minutes, reassesses the situation and determines this is no longer a hard grounding but has now progressed into a salvage operation and the agreement you just signed needs to be amended accordingly. Did you know that the cost for this operation just went from maybe $1,000.00 to maybe $10,000.00 or much more since salvage is based on a percentage of the value of the boat? Of course the Captain will want to see your valid insurance information and will advise you not to worry because your boat insurance will certainly cover the cost. But did you know your boat policy had a $4,000.00 deductible that may or may not have to pay out of pocket? Next the Captain puts a large water pump on your boat and stuffs plugs into your exhaust and water discharge lines above the waterline even though you are high and dry and none of these are in danger of taking on water. But he does this “just in case”. Did you know that you may have paid a premium price for the act of placing the pump on your boat, even if it is never used and this strengthens the case for salvage? By this time the tide has reversed and is now coming in to the point where a bit of maneuvering by the towboat with lines strategically placed, gets you back in deeper water and once again floating free. Story over? Not exactly yet.

Soon after getting back to the dock and lowering you blood pressure you get a call from your insurance company so you can explain this salvage operation to them. They explain to you that the towboat Captains reports states that your boat was taking on water upon his arrival and he has an agreement signed by you to salvage your sinking, grounded vessel, and by the way with your deductible you will have to cover the $4,000.00 difference and they will be happy to pay the rest but you will also need to haul your vessel for a sum of about $400.00 and pay a surveyor about $300.00 to survey for any damages and be sure the boat is seaworthy before they will continue coverage. This is preposterous and could never happen you say. Well, don’t be so sure, although most tow operators are honest, hard working professionals, unfortunately this kind of scenario happens all too often.

So how can you be sure you have the coverage you thought you had and how do you keep from getting yourself into a situation like this? First and foremost read and understand the policy and the differences in coverage based on all situations. Even the time of day can affect coverage. Most tow companies charge more for a night tow, and night starts at dusk. Ask questions, ask questions and ask questions, before you buy the policy. Have ANYTHING you don’t understand clarified and get it in writing; even an email carries some weight. Know the difference between a tow and salvage. Salvage is usually defined as voluntary and successful rescue of a vessel, its cargo or crew from perils at sea. That leaves things open to a pretty broad interpretation. Be very cautious in signing forms or agreements in the heat of the moment. But also understand that even with no forms or agreement a towboat operator may make a claim for salvage. A salvor only needs to demonstrate that his efforts were voluntary, the vessel was in peril and he was successful in his efforts. Look for policies that will cover these major expenses without a deductible. Unless salvage is specifically addressed in your towing policy it may not be covered but may be paid from your boats damage or loss policy so set reasonable deductibles for these policies. Ask before a line is attached to your boat if the incident is going to be a tow or salvage. If possible find out what the towboat charges are going to be. If time and circumstances permit, call your insurance company and ask for assistance and clarification. If you are not in peril and don’t feel right about the situation, call it off and contact another towing company. You may be covered for the expense of another tow company under your standard insurance policy. Commercial towing companies provide an important service to the recreational boater and every day a tow company somewhere saves the day and brings us home safely. It is the boat owner’s responsibility to fully understand what is covered and to assure that the services provided are the services requested and to take whatever steps are required to eliminate any misunderstandings.

THIS AUTHORS TOWING DEFINITIONS

Discussions of the differences between soft groundings, hard groundings or salvage come up any time commercial towing is mentioned. These are some of this author's definitions as I understand them, but may or may not be the same definitions various towing companies have. Here are the issues presented in the article.

SOFT GROUNDINGS-----To me this would be a simple situation where the tow boat would arrive on scene, pass a line to the boat in need of assistance and either pull them off and send them on their way, or tow them to a facility for repair. This could be the boater’s marina. This type of assistance would entail a single boat utilizing a single tow line and a short time period to accomplish the task.

HARD GROUNDING-----In this situation you would be looking at a vessel grounded on a rock area or coral, and possibly taking on water as a result of the grounding. It may also require multiple tow boats with multiple lines, or additional services such as divers, pumps, or an extended time period to assist the vessel. This scenario, in my opinion, would be considered a hard grounding.

SALVAGE-----If we look at the “legal” definition of salvage, the main indicator is whether or not the crew or vessel is in peril. And that does not always mean immediate peril. The responder must be doing so voluntarily, and he must succeed in the operation. That leaves the entire definition of salvage open to a pretty broad interpretation. It could be argued that any towing scenario could be a salvage operation. Most towing companies would probably not file a salvage claim under simple towing circumstances since any challenge would involve arbitration, or a court decision, or be too costly and time consuming including the possibility of failure. If the vessel were in danger of sinking, washing up on the shore or rocks, pounding on a reef, or presenting itself as a hazard to navigation and of concern to others, then most certainly it would be considered a salvage operation. If the vessel, or crew, or even the assisting vessel is placed in “peril”, then again, there should be no question as to whether or not it is a salvage operation.

An actual decision handed down from a U.S. District Court stated , “to constitute a maritime peril, it is not necessary that the danger be actual or imminent, it is sufficient if, at the time assistance was rendered, the vessel was stranded so that it was subject to the potential danger of damage or destruction”. In most cases, this interpretation is on the shoulders of the responder, the tower. It gives us something to ponder the next time we make that call for assistance. The time to consider and check your insurance policy and towing contract would be long before you cast off your dock lines.

Transforming the Non-Skid Decks

This article appeared in the July/August issue of Good Old Boat.


Anyone that owns or is considering the purchase of an older boat that is in need of some renovations has wrestled with what to do with worn or faded non-skid surfaces on the decks. There are several options including artificial materials glued to the decks, paints and coatings. Our Mariner 40 ketch, Sea Trek, has just had the 30th anniversary of the laying of her keel. We  lived aboard and cruised her extensively for 17 years and the repairs and renovations were ongoing from the beginning. While she had not been abused, she had not been used and was allowed to simply sit at the dock uncared for. Simple cosmetics like redoing the extensive teak trim was easy although time consuming. Our plans were two fold; first to bring her back to like new condition, and second to make her as safe and comfortable as possible for offshore and coastal cruising.


After a few short term cruises on the Chesapeake Bay, we came to several conclusions. One that stood out was the fact that the non-skid was non-skid no longer. Also, the finish was badly faded and worn, despite the lack of use. So we began our research of just how we might do this without spending serious dollars or hiring a professional. One of our goals was to do any repairs or renovations ourselves to save money, to improve our skills and knowledge, and to know that the boat was done to our liking and expectations. Our first attempt was to try the easiest and most obvious. We decided to paint the surface close to the original non-skid color and not change the surface texture. This first try was done using Awlgrip paint for it toughness and ease of application. We used a flattening agent to take the high gloss out so it would not be so slippery. This looked great but the reality was that underway with rain or seas breaking on the deck, we still had to crawl down the deck to go forward because you had a hard time keeping your footing. So it was time for plan B, and there is always a plan B.


With more research came several expensive and very labor intensive choices. If we went this route, the cruising would have to be delayed and we would have had to plan for a fair amount of our free time to complete the project. Almost by accident, we came across a post on a cruisers web site about a product called Tuff Coat by Ultra Tuff Marine www.tuffcoat.net that could be painted on the deck, came in different colors and was touted as a true non-skid that would not break the bank. The manufacturer claims the product is used in industrial applications and is used by military and commercial shipping alike. It sounded like the answer to our dilemma and more web research brought very positive feedback. And also as important, it fit into the budget. While we waited for the product to arrive we studied the installation requirements and even began preparations.

The first requirement was to thoroughly sand the surface to be covered with a 40- to 60-grit sand paper. Needless to say, this did a number on our painted surface and almost completely smoothed out the texture on the non-skid areas. We had to be very careful not to sand into the adjoining painted surfaces. Did I mention that we had completely Awlgripped the entire boat from the waterline to the masthead? Once the sanding was completed we cleaned all surfaces with soap and water and waited for the product to arrive.


For the square footage of our decks that needed to be covered we calculated three gallons and decided to order four. An epoxy primer recommended by the manufacturer was also needed so we ordered a gallon, plus the special roller applicators needed. The entire process was a bit more time consuming than we anticipated. As with any project like this the preparations are not only important but can take up the most time. The first step was to remove any deck hardware we were able to or felt that it would be more beneficial than leaving. There were some items such as handrails that would mean removal of interior headliners and such that we chose to leave in place. Once the items were removed, the painted areas and whatever was left in place needed to be taped around securely. Rounded corners and odd shapes required a bit more effort, and then a strip of 9” paper was added to the taped strips to prevent splatter. Getting all of this in place took much longer than the actual painting of the coating.


Once all of the taping was finished, we laid on the first coat of primer. This was in two parts that need to be mixed in the correct proportions. Once mixed, it must be used, since it cannot be kept for very long even in a closed container. We were able to mix enough to cover all of the decks on the first pass. A small paint tray and a 4-inch closed foam brush made applying the primer a quick and easy task. The primer is little more that the consistency of milk and only a light coat was needed. There is no need to sand the primed surface prior to the top coat. Once done, a 24 hour wait is required before the coating can be applied.


The final finish needs to be done in two coats. There is a special foam roller that is used for the application to give the surface a uniformed textured look and an ordinary brush to “dab” the topcoat in areas that the roller won’t reach. The coating has suspended particles that require thorough mixing throughout the process. We use a mixer attached to an electric drill to get a good mix in the can. The first coat is laid down in strips of about 3 feet rolled on alongside each other but not overlapping. Complete coverage is not important at this point but keeping the roller moving in the same direction is. Once an area of about nine square feet is covered, the coating needs to be rolled at a 90-degree angle to the first application and worked in until there is a pretty uniform coverage. Total cover is still not important yet, but a uniform texture is. In a short period of time, you get the technique down easily. This whole process is continued till the entire non-skid areas are covered.

Once the first coat is dry to the touch, the second coat needs to be applied. It is important that this be done quickly and not left until the next day. For us, once we were finished with the first coat it was dry enough for the second. The process is the same as the first coat, except that attention should be paid to getting complete coverage with this coat. To cover Sea Trek’s decks with two coats took us a total of three hours. Once the second coat is completed, the paper and tape must be removed immediately. Leaving the tape too long can pull the coating off of the edges when the tape is removed. As soon as the second coat was completed, we pulled first the paper then the tape around the edges. This can be a bit acrobatic while trying not to walk or lean on the coated areas. Once all of the tape and paper was removed, we had to just stay off the decks for several hours. After that, we were able to walk carefully on the surface in stocking or bare feet. Ideally we wanted to stay off for 48 hours to give it plenty of time to dry. The final step is to re-install and re-bed the hardware that had been removed. Any time hardware is removed and re-installed on the decks, we soak the holes for the fasteners with thinned epoxy to completely seal the deck core so it can not leak or absorb water if the bedding fails.

One of the big challenges in this project is not letting the decks get wet for 48 hours. Careful planning for weather, keeping your dock neighbor from hosing it down and other considerations come into play. One of our concerns was evening dew settling on the surface. We waited until there was no rain in the forecast and the relative humidity was projected to be low. This can be difficult with a boat sitting in the water. Perhaps done on the hard or in a shed with a controlled environment would be the best way to go. As it turned out we had no problems. The finished result looked fantastic and was better than we expected. Taking our time during the application process we were able to get a good looking uniformed texture that rivaled or bettered many factory finishes on the dock. But best is the entire surface was indeed a true non-skid which did not seem to be affected by water or the kind of footwear, or lack thereof, you might be wearing. It appears to be rugged and has held up to anchoring, piling chain up on the foredeck and whatever else we have done in the normal process of sailing the boat. Our entire time invested to completion was about three days. How long the finish will hold up and how long it will continue to look great…only time will tell. But for now we are very optimistic and would recommend anyone contemplating the refinishing of their non-skids to consider this option.

A Hatch From Scratch

Our article from the May/June 2009 issue of Good Old Boat

Sometimes a simple solution to a problem is not always simple. Although Sea Trek is a great cruising vessel, there are a few things we wanted to change. One draw back was the lack of good ventilation below. With six opening ports we thought it would not be a problem. But with ten-inch high bulwarks around the deck it left something wanting. The only deck hatch is forward over the vee-berth. This is great for sleeping but still not great for airflow thru out the main cabin. We added strategically placed solar vents and cabin fans but in the tropical areas we usually cruise it was still not enough.

Our main salon is very open and airy. We knew a center hatch was the perfect solution. It should have been an easy project to accomplish. Not being an experienced woodworker I knew I needed to seek professional help. I am not sure why but we just couldn’t get a carpenter to even come to the boat to look at or estimate the job for us. Some were willing to give us an exorbitant estimate based on my measurements, sight unseen. Believe it or not we went back and forth with this for six years.

One day I met up with a friend that had recently relocated back to our area. I knew he was a very good woodworker and had all the tools and skills necessary. When I mentioned my attempts to get someone to build a hatch he immediately offered to help make it happen. I was delighted to finally get this project started. Sea Trek is a very traditional looking vessel. The off the shelf hatches available just would not do. It had to match the forward hatch as closely as possible. Since that hatch was teak, this one needed to be the same. It also needed to be strong enough to withstand heavy breaking seas and handle the weight of someone walking on it.

The actual hatch size was to be 24 inches by 24 inches. We found a single piece of teak at a local wood shop that was ¾” X 10” X 9’. Cost was just under $200.00 including having the shop do some of the finished planning for us. Since we wanted the hatch to open in both directions, two sets of hinges with removable pins were needed. We also needed to dog it down in both positions, so two sets of latches were needed. A good strong pair of hatch holders to allow us to hold it open in any position rounded out the hardware. Total cost for the hardware was about $95.00. The final piece would be the Lexan top for the finished cover. We chose the dark smoked to again match the forward hatch. It needed to be very strong so we decided on ½ inch. This was slightly thicker than the forward hatch, but in it’s center location it would get walked on quite a bit. Cost for the Lexan locally was $81.00.

Then the construction was to begin. There would be two finished pieces. The main hatch itself measured 24”X24” on the outside and needed to be only 3 ½ “ deep. This would give us a low profile on the deck and fit flush with the headliner inside the cabin. A strip frame was added to the area that would sit above the deck. This would position the hatch frame at the right depth on the inside and give us an overlap on the deck for thorough bedding. Deck leaks are always a concern for us. All pieces were screwed and epoxied together with the screws countersunk and bunged. Next we needed a 1 ½” finished frame for the underside that would attach to the very bottom of the hatch. This was to nicely finish off the bottom that was flush with the headliner.

The second piece is the hatch lid. It needed to overlap the main frame so that water could not work it’s way under it. We decided to allow the lid to sit on the strip frame we added that would rest on the deck. This gave a nice even appearance when the hatch was closed. Everything gave the same appearance as the existing forward hatch. The hatch frame stood 2 ½” above the deck. The lid was 3”tall. But when it was closed, the entire hatch only stands 3 ¾” off the deck because of the overlap. We flush mounted the pieces of Lexan to the top and used a polysulfide sealant to make the Lexan watertight. All fasteners on the Lexan were counter sunk for a nice finished look. Next we added five, ¾” wide strips across the lid. This was both decorative and functional. It hides some of the fasteners in the Lexan and keeps it from getting too scratched when we have to walk on it. We decided that all corners would be overlapped instead of being mitered. This would give us greater strength. Also the finished frame and top needed to be square.

The next and most important step was the placement. I had designed it so that it fit nicely between two teak crossbeams on the headliner. Using the frame itself as a template, we drew out the inside area with a pencil on the interior headliner. Before anything else, we checked to be sure the template we had just marked was truly square. Next we checked to be sure the interior finishing frame would fit clear of any obstructions. I believe I rechecked each of these about ten times. Once I was satisfied that this was the spot, I drilled a ¼” hole through the headliner and deck at each corner. Now I was committed. The main section was then taken on deck and lined up with the four holes I had drilled. Once I was again satisfied with the positioning I drew an outline again using the frame as a template. This time using the outside dimensions. Once again, everything was check to be sure it was square. Then it was checked again….and again….and again.

Now comes the scary part. I was about to cut a two foot square hole right in the middle of my deck. I can’t tell you how many times I asked myself if I had totally lost my mind. We needed to do this in the neatest fashion possible. The executive officer was already making threats if one ounce of fiberglass dust got into the cabin. By taping plastic trash bags to the headliner outside of the area we were working in, we just about eliminated that problem. The exec stood by underneath with a vacuum running just in case. I was concerned that we might have wires for the cabin lights in the area so the saw blade was set to just cut through the deck. It was do or die time. When I get myself to this point I go a little crazy. I ask myself over and over, did I miss something? Was one small calculation off? This is major surgery. Finally, we cut off the power inside the cabin just in case and fired up the trusty power saw. Even with a good carbide blade, Sea Trek was not giving up this section of her deck easily. Finally the cuts were finished on four sides. Because the power saw blade is curved, the cuts did not go all the way to the corners. I needed to finish off with my saber saw, also with a carbide blade. Once the section of the deck was removed the headliner was exposed and no wiring was present. In hindsight, I might have cut out the headliner first to make sure. With that, I adjusted the power saw blade and retraced my steps to cut through the headliner. I now had a perfectly square two-foot hole in my deck. I was sure we would have torrential rains beginning in about three minutes and lasting for days.

Another decision I made was to not use fasteners to attach the hatch to the deck. Because the deck works to some extent and I wanted the hatch to work with it I decided to use a liquid fastener we commonly know as 5200. After carefully taping off the deck and the frame around the hatch I applied generous amounts under the lip and were the frame went through the deck. I used the mahogany color since it was kind of close to the teak. Next I positioned the lid on top of the frame without adding the hardware yet. And finally a five gallon bucket of water added just enough weight to the whole thing as to seat the frame solidly in the 5200 but not squeeze it all out. Then the messy part, cleaning off the excess. And this is how she sat for a week. I wanted it to be undisturbed until the 5200 had completely cured.

One week later the finishing work began. Before the hardware was attached we did the required varnishing. The interior headliner frame was fitted and since we wanted a screen to keep out the bugs we worked on that. A simple wood frame was made that fit inside the opening. A ¾” strip was attached at one end, which ran the length of the inside. At the opposite end on the corners two small 1 ½” strips were attached that could be turned to allow the screen frame to get past them. One end of the frame sat on the strip on one side and the other end sits on the small pieces on the corners when they are turned inward. A quarter turn of those two small strips lets the screen drop right out. I added some molding just above the screen frame so it could not be pushed or blown out the open hatch. Finally all the hardware could be attached.

This has more than surpassed our expectations. The difference this hatch has made in comfort and appearance to the boat was well worth the effort and the wait. The interior is even brighter than before and the amount of air circulation we have now is enormous. We now find we have to chase every piece of paper we put down, all over the cabin. It is not a project I would enter into lightly. The design and planning must be well thought out. I thought ours out for six years. A mistake could be very costly. But for those willing to tackle it, the rewards are wonderful. Careful consideration of structural integrity of the hatch and the decks, once these modifications are done should be at the top of your list. Our total expenditures for materials was about $400.00. This does not count the sweat equity. The satisfaction of such a project cannot be calculated.